Method of randing shoes and trimming the heels thereof



April 16, 1929. T. LUND 1,708,973

METHOD OF RANDING SHOES AND TRIMMING THE HEELS THEREOF Filed Sept. 20, 1924 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 3% 54 56 40 5&6 94* g m E Z v i i Ya? L o A M1 50 lmmnnnnnnml O T. LUND 1,708,973

METHOD OF RANDING SHOES AND TRIMMING THE HEELS THEREOF April 16, 1929.

Filed Sept. 20, 1924 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Apr. 16, 1929.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

THOMAS LUND, OF BEVERLY, MASfiACI-I'USETTEE, ASE-IGNOR T0 UNITED SHOE MACHIIEPT- ERY CDRPORATION, 9F. PATEL-RS031, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF RANDING SHOES AND TEIMMING HEELS THEREOF.

Application filed September 20, 1924. Serial No. 738,848.

This invention relates to shaping the peripheral contours of shoes in process of manufacture. The invention is hereinafter described with special reference to randing shoes having spring heels and to trimming or shaping the heels'otsuch shoes, but in various aspects it is not necessarily restricted to the shaping of spring heeled shoes.

The shaping of spring heels has heretofore been a slow, troublesome and relatively costly operation-costly because it has required the highest degree of skill, slow because the operative has been dependent upon his eye, judgment and skill in manipulating the work and troublesome because of a number of conditions that need not all be herein set forth but which are Well-known to those experienced in" the art. It will be well, however, to point out some of the causes of difliculty in such work.

In the manufacture of a spring-heeled shoe the Wedge element or base of the heel is usually died out approximately to a final shape and size, and is attached to the shoe manually and located by eye as nearly as possible in register with the hoel-seat or counter, without regard to the sole, while the sole, which is located; with more regard to register of the torepart than to register ot the heel-end, always projects beyond the wedge element at the sides and back. Furthermore, the operative whose duty it is to shape the heel has no preshaped topli'tt to control the depth of triinmiug andto assist his manipulation of the shoe as in shaping other types oi heels, and so it has become the custom simultaneously to trim and rand a spring heel by slowly trimming off and randing a little here, a little there, inspecting the result, repeating the operation, again inspecting the result, and so on until, in the judgment-of the operative, the contour of the heel approximates the shape of the counter. Consequently, the shaping of: spring heels, as heretofore practiced, is essentially an edge-trimming op- 'eration wherein the operative has been obliged to rely for contour, SN'IOOtl'lIlGSS of surface and. randing upon his eye and skill of manipulation as in trimming the edge of a ,sole' around the 'lorepart. For this work it has been customary to use only fine-cutting toothed cutters oi the same type as bllOSQ used for trimming :tore iarts. Not

only does the use of such cutters retard production, particularly when used as above stated, but if the heel part of the sole projects very far beyond the wedge element, as do the corners of a block sole, the shaping operation is thereby necessarily rendered still slower as well as more difiicult.

In some respects springheel trimming is v ttended by more diflicult conditions than torepart trimming. For example, a spring heel is thicker than a forepart and there fore requires more effort to maintain it against the cutter, one layer of stock, that is, the heel-end of the sole, projects be yond the other or others, the extent of such projection varies greatly atsuccessive points, and the thickness of a spring heel varies at successive point-s beeausethe wedge elements are not made of accurately graded stock. Again, shoemaking standards require greater accuracy at the heel-end than elsewhere, since the extension of the shoe bottom at the heel-end must be narrow and uniform while at the shank and forepart it is wider and commonly of varying width through choice. Thus, while accuracy is as much to be desired in forepart trimming as in heel trimming, inaccuracies are more noticeable in the latter because, in compari son to the relatively narrow Width of the extension at the heel, they are proportion ally greater than inaccuracies of the same nniunitudein the torepart.

The spring-heel-trimining operative cannot, as a practical matter, produce a uniform width of extension and uniform randing at the same time under the existing conditions, nor can he produce two shoes alike. Any real attempt to avoid palpable irregularities retards production.

in view of the above-mentioned conditions, an object of the invention is to provide an improved method adapted for use in trinnning spring heels by which a heel may be shaped to produce a uniform width o'l. extension beyond the rand-crease and by which uniform rand trimming or 'anding may beinsured.

The term rand as used herein not in tended to mean the well-known U-shaped piece of leather commonly inserted between the sole and heel, but is intended to mean the marginal surface projecting from. the

it is the marginal portion of the heel end of the sole.

In one aspect,the invention consists in im- -tia1ly trimming the periphery exclusively ofga heel to produce a uniform width of extension from the rand-crease by using the rand-crease to control'the'course of such trimming, and thereaftertrimming the rand and the periphery of .the heel simultaneously to finalshape. Preferably both the mud ing and the final trimming of the periphery will be controlled by the rand-crease to insureuniformity in the width of the ex-- tension. Innnother aspect'theinvention provides for rapid production by employing a coarse cut to takeoff the greater part of the surplus stock from the periphery of the heel incidentally to reducing the extension to Y uniforni width, and employing a fine cut thereafterto randthe heel and to smooth the entire peripheral surface previously :formed with the coarse cut.

Furthermore, inthe manufacture of shoes it is desirable to insure uniformity and accuracy in; locating the fasteners that are'inserted throughor into the heel. r The term fasteners? is here used in its broad sense .to include nails, pegs and slugs, even though the latter are sometimes so short that they havelittle, if any, fastening function but chiefly, atleast, a wear-resisting and ornamental effect. Many machines now used for inserting fasteners in spring heels comprise a gage arranged to run on the periphery of the heel to locate the fasteners, but, obvious- 1y, if the periphery is'nottrue that is, if the width of the extension is not uniform, its

variations will produce corresponding variations 1n the placing of the fasteners.

Accordingly another object of this invention is to provide an improved method adapted for usein-thez making of shoes by .which the periphery of therand-crease extension or base of aheel may be used to insure accurate and uniform placing of the fasteners. This result isnot only desirable for its ornamental effect when the heels areto be vsluggedor pegged, but, as to fasteners used to anchor theheel to theheel-seat, is essentialto avoid striking the lasting tacks previously inserted and still permit placing the ,fasteners inside the line of the rand-crease.

Therefore, in another aspect the invention consists in securing a heel to the heel-seat of a shoe, trimming the periphery of the heel to a uniform distance from the randcrease as by using the latter to determine the course of trimming, and inserting a series of fasteners into the heel, if not also into the heel-seat, at :1 uniform distance from the rand-crease by using the uniformly trimmed periphery to locate such fasteners. This procedure may be, and preferably is supplemented by a final trimming operation to trim the rand and smooth the periphery of the heel as hcreinbefore explained.

The accompanying drawings illustrate a turn shoe and a welt shoe, and apparatus suitable for trimming and randing the heels and locating fasteners in the heels according to the present invention.

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a front elevation of the upper portion of an improved heel-shaping machine comprising a coarse cutter for doing the bulk of the shaping of the periphery, and a fine cutter for trimming the rand and smoothing the periphery.

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the assemblage for performing the first shaping operation, the direction of view being from left to right with reference to Fig. 1.

Fig. 3 is a side elevation of the assemblage for performing the second or final trimming operation, the direction of view being the same as Fig. 2.

Fig. 4 is a top plan view of an assemblage illustrated in Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a top plan view, partly in section, including one of the cutters for performing the first shaping operation, gages for cooperating therewith and broken lines representing a spring-heeled shoe in working position.

Fig. 6 represents the shoe in working position for the final trimming by the assemblage illustrated in Figs. 3 and 4.

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the heelcnd of a shoe that has undergone the first stage of shaping according to Fig. 5.

Fig. 8 represents the same shoe shown in Fig. 7 after it has undergone the final trimming as shown by Fig. 6.

Fig. 9 is a sole plan illustrating the result of using the trimmed periphery of the heel to locate the heel nails in a line parallel to the rand-crease.

Fig. 10 is a longitudinal sectional view of a turn shoe in working position relatively to an edge gage and a nail-driving device of a heel-seat-nniling machine. Figs. 9 and 10 represent different views of the same shoe, although the nail-locating result shown in Fig. 9 can also be obtained in a welt shoe or a McKay shoe.

Fig. 11 is a sole plan of the heel-end of a welt shoe.

Fig. 12 is a longitudinal vertical section through the heel-end of a welt shoe that has been trimmed, nailed and slugged according to this invention.

Fig. includes a conventional showing of a turned shoe similar to that shown in Fig.

10, the counter portion of the shoe being indicated at 1 1-, the sole at 16, and the wedge lift or lifts of the spring heel at 18. According to common practice in making a shoe of this type, the wedge element 1.8 is not applied. until after the sole-leveling operation. Up to this stage the procedure is regular and need not be described. tion of the sole 16 is not attached to the heel-seat at the stage when the leveling operation is performed because it is necessary to lift it as represented by broken lines'in Fig. 10, so that the wedge element 18 may be inserted after the leveling operation.

Having inserted the wedge element, which preferably is ooatedwith cement on both faces, the turned-up heel portion of the sole is replaced but now lies on the wedge element. One or two nails 20 will now be driven through the sole, the wedge element 18 and the; shank piece 22, and their points will be turned back and clenched by the metal plate 24.- with which the last 26 is shod. The wedge element and the heel-end of the sole are thus initially fastened to the heel-seat of the shoe.

To insure suflicient stock in the heel-end of the sole 16- to cover entirely the wedge element 18, said heel end is usually made larger than it will be finally (see projecting mar inal oortion 28 in Fi e. 5 and 9 but,

the wedge element 18 is usually died out more nearly to the final shape and size and is located nearly in register with the heelseat of the shoe rather than with the sole. Consequently, before the heel-end of the sole is trimmed it ordinarily projects beyond the wedge element as represented in Fig. 5.

The shoeis now ready to undergo the li 3t step of shaping according" to the present invention. This step consists in reducing the periphery of the heel to a uniform distance from the rand-crease by using the raiulrrease to determine the course of trim.- ming'. As illustrated in Fig. 5, the tread surface of the heel is placed against a tread rest 80 and the rand-crease is placedagainst a rand-crease gage 82. Although the structural details of the illustrated trimmingmachine are hereinafter more fully described it may be stated here that the members 250 and 82 are supported adjacent to a rotary cutter-head comprising cutting blades one of which is indicated at 3d in Fig. 5 (see also Figs. 1 and 2). The general organization of the trimming machine herein shown is si iii-arto that shown in Letters Patent of the United States 308,056, granted Novembcr18, 1884-, on application of J. H. Busell. The rand crease gage 32 is adjustable to- Thc heel porward and from the axis of the cutter-head to determine the depth of trimming and therefore the width of the extensionof the heel beyond the rand-crease, while the tread-rest 80 is also adjustable toward and from the axis of the cutter-head to provide for various diameters of the latter and is adjustable about a vertical pivot member 86 to determine the pitch or slant of the trimmed periphery. This pivot member connects the tread-rest with an adjustable slide 88 which carries an adjusting screw 40. The cutting edges 42 of the blades 3% trim the sole 16 and wed element 18 flush and produce the result shown in Figs. 7, 9 and 10 in which the trimmed periphery of the heel is indicated at 1st.

If it desired tones the trimmed peripher 44L to locate the nails or pegs by which the heel is to be more securely fastened to the heel'seat of the shoe the latter may now be presented-to a nailing or pegging machine. Fig. 10 illustrates how this operation may be performed with a heclseat nailing machine, but it will be understood that a pegging machine may be used at this stage if it is desired to insert pegs instead of nails. A well-known type of nailing machine comprises a nozzle 46, a driver 48 and an edge gage 50, whereas a wellknown type of pegging machine comprises corresponding elements tl'iat function in substantially the same way as those about to be described. If desired, a nailing machine of the type shown in United States Letters Patent No. 490,624 granted January 2 1, 1898, upon application of Louis Goddu, a part of which is shown in Fig. 10, may be used, while the pegging machine (not shown) may be of the type shown in United States Letters Patent No. 581,066, granted April 20, 1897, upon application of Davey and Ladd.

In the use of a nailing machine such as that referred to, the last 26 is placed upon a horn spindle 52 with which such fastlmew ll'lffleltlllg lllflolllIlGS are provided, and the trimmed periphery l i of the rand-crease eX- tension or wedge element forming the base of the heel is placed against the edge page and held in contact therewith while the shoe and last are turned about the jack post.

The driver 48 is reciprocated by suitable power-driven mechanism to drive heel-seat nails successively from the nozzle 48 and into the heel, and since these nails are located at a uniform distance from the periphery 4" of the base of the heel which has prei usly been trimmed to a uniform distance from therandcrease it follows that they will be located at a uniformdistance from the rand-crease.

The shoe is now ready for the final trimining of the heel which includes trimming 1 the rand and smoothing the periphery 4.4..

Fig. 6 shows how this, step may be performed by a rotary toothed cutter 56 that takes a fine cut coextensive with the thickness of theheel and has a randing lip 58 which bevels the rand, as indicated at 70 in Fig. 8. The assemblage for this purpose also includes a rand crease gage 60 and a tread-rest 62. The gage is adjustable transi versely of the axis of the cutter to regulate the closeness of trimming. The treadrest is supported by an adjustable slide 64 to which it connectedby a pivot member 66.

V lVhen the coarse cutter comprising the blades 3t-isusedto perform the first trimmi'ng operation, it produces aperipheral surface'tt (Figs. 7, 9 and 10) the contour of V Y which conforms to the counter portion 14 of the shoe, the marginal extension of the heel beyond the rand-crease bemg thus reduced .to uniform width at all points but not bcveled or randed. The course of this initial .peripheral trimming is guided by the randcrease and the gage 32. e As a result thereof the periphery is trimmed so nearly to its final shape that what. little stock remains to be trimmed therefrom is so slight and so evenly distributed as to be no detriment to evenness-in the subsequent randing. Since the finishing cutter 56 trims the entire thicknessof the periphery. 4A in addition to bev- 7' cling the rand as indicated at-70 (Fig. 8), it forms no joint or ridge in the periphery creasegage 60 is .provided.

but produces aperipheral surface that needs no scouring. Whatever additional stock is trimmed from the periphery by the finishing cutter 56 is'hardly more than enough to smooth the surface formed by the cutters 34.

Here'also, the rand-crease may be used to insure a'uniform width of extension without too much dependence upon theskill. of the operative, and for this purpose the rand- The result of the final trimming as performed by the assemblage shown in Fig. 6 is represented in Fig. 8 in which the finally trimmed periphery is indicated. at GS and the bevel imparted to the rand by the randing lip 58 is indicated at 70.

So far. as I am aware, it is new to trim a heel and bevel the rand as hereinbefore explained, that is, by first trimming the entire periphery of the heel parallel to the rand-crease without beveling the rand, and thereafter simultaneouslybeveling the rand and trimming the entire periphery to final shape. In addition, the invention provides for rapid production by procedure according to which a. relatively coarse and therefore rapid'cut'is used for the first trimming or peripheral shaping, and a fine cut used for the randing and for finishing the entire peripheral surface produced by the first trimming. The cutters '34 are adapted to -execute a coarse cut and to operate much more rapidly than the toothed :cutters heretofore ordinarily used for trimming spring heels, but the finishing cutter 56 is adapted to make a fine cut and to leave the periphery in suitable condition for edge-setting. Since, according to the method hercinbeforc described, the finishing cutter 56 is used merely to trim the rand and smooth the previously trimmed periphery, its duty is comparatively light and it is adznted to perform its operation rapidly and ocs not require sharpening so often as it has heretofore been necessary to sharpen toothed cutters for this kind of work when all the trimming has been performed by one cutter and in a single operation.

Figs. 11 and 12 exemplify the present invention as utilized in the manufacture of a welt shoe having a spring heel. The shoe shown in Fig. 12 comprises an insole T2, and the wedge element 18 is attached before the outsole 78 is laid. According to (he most approved practice in making a welt shoe with a spring heel the procedure up to and including the inseam-trimming operation is no different from that in any other welt shoe. After the inseam has been trimmed the wedge element 18 may be placed in position and initially fastened with one or two nails 74 with or without cement to assist the nails in holding it against displacement. The shoe may now be presented to a heel-seat-nailing machine such as that above mentioned comprising a nozzle and driver indicated 'at 46 and 48 in Fig. and com rising either an edge gage such as that im icated at 50 or, if preferred, a rand-crease or counter gage to locate the heel-seat nails 76 inside the linc of the rand-crease and at the desired distance therefrom. The shoe-bottom-filling and cementing operations may now be performed to prepare the shoe for the outsole 78. A block sole 78 is ordinarily used for a welt shoe, and after being laid it is rough rounded, stitched and leveled. If desired, the, corners S0 of the sole may be cut off to facilitate the trimming operation now about to follow but this is not necessary.

The original outline of the heel end of the outsole is represented in Fig. 11 by a dotand-dash line, and the original eriphery of the wedgeelcment 18 is indicated by a broken line 82. As a result of trimming the heel with the apparatus shown in Fig. 5, the outsole and wedge element are trimmed to the line indicated at 84 which line is a uniform distance at all points from the rand-crease. The result of thus reducing the heel is illustrated also in Fig. 12.

If it is desired to slug the heel, the shoe will be presented to a slugging machine such, for example, as that shown in United States Letters Patent No. 786,190, granted March 28, 1905, on application of L. A, Gascgrain, by the use of which the slugs 86 are automatically inserted and spaced one from another and are located at a uniform distance from the trimmed periphery by an edge gage arranged to function in the same way as the edge gage 50 shown in Fig. 10. Fig. 11 includes a broken line rcpresentingthe line in which the heel-seat nails 76 will be located when insertedas hereinbei ore explained, and

includes another broken line representing the line in which the slugs 86 may be located. Inasmuch as the periphery 8 1 would, according to this invention, be trimmed to a uniform distance from the rand-crease before it is used to locate the slugs 86, as above described, the slugs will necessarily be located at a uniform distance from, or in register with, the rand-crease, and the slugs will serve to fasten the heel-end of the sole to the wedge element which has previously been anchored to the bottom of the shoe by the nails 7 1 and 7 6. The shoe may now be presented to the finishing cutter 56 (Fig. 6) to trim the rand and to smooth the periphery.

Referring particularly to the trimming machine shown in Figs. 1 to 6, inclusive, by which the trimming operations hereinbefore explained may be performed, the construe tion comprises a frame 88 having bearings 1101 two horizontal belt-driven shafts 90 and 92. The shaft 90 carries the cutter-head comprising the cutters 3 1- by which thefirst ste 3 of trimming is performed, while the sha t 92 carries the toothed cutter 56 by which the randing and final trimming are performed. The rand-crease gage 32 is supported by links 91 adaptedto swing so that the gage 32 may move toward and from the tread rest 30 according to the thickness of the heel while the tread is maintained in one plane by the tread-rest 30. A spring 96 (Fig. 2) acts on one of the links 94 to urge the gage 32 normally toward the tread-rest. A heel-rest 98 is provided to support the heel against the cutting stress of the cutters 3land 1s preferably mounted so that it may be moved up and down by a treadle 100 dur1ng the progress 01 trimming. For this purpose the rest 98 is attached to a vertically movable slide 102 arranged in aguidelO i. A link 106 connects the slide 102 and the treadle 100. The treadle is connected to a floor plate 108 by a pivot member 110, the latter being located between the ends of the treadle so that the operative, by depressing the heelend of the treadle, may raise the heel-rest 98 and by pressing the toe-end may lower the heel-rest. The movement required of the heel-rest 98 is slight and may be utilized merely to counteract the variant curvature of the heel so that the point of trimming will remain approximately at a constant level.

Referring to Fig. 1, the tread-rest 62 associated with the finishing cutter 56 is carried by anadjustable plunger 6-1. This plunger is arranged to slide in a bracket 112 and 1s normally urged to the left by a compression spring 114:. Theplunger (34 has a screwthreaded shank 116 projecting from the right-hand end of the bracket to carry a thumb nut 118 by which its movement to the left may be regulated. The screw 66 by which the tread-rest is pivotally connected to the slide provides for holding the tread-rest frictionally at any cesired angle and at the same time permits the tread-rest to swing to various angles according to the desired flare to be imparted to the profile of the heel.

The rand-crease gage 60 is formed with a shank 120which is arranged to slide in a groove formed in a bracket 122 for purposes of adjustment. A rotary adjusting member 12 1 having a pinion (not shown) is carried by the bracket to shift the gage trans versely of the axis of the cutter according to the diameter of the latter, the shank 120 having rack teeth engaging the pinion. A bolt 126 provides for clan'iping the shank 120 to the bracket 122 to maintain the gage against accidental displacement. This gage, being stationary, maintains the rand-crease infcon'stant relation to the randing lip 58 while the tread-rest 62 may slide to and fro according to variations in the thickness of the heel. A heel-rest 128 is provided to support the heel against the cutting stress of the cutter 56 and is supported by a pivot member 130 screwed into the bracket 122. A clamping screw 182 is provided to secure the heel-rest 128 in various positions of adustment.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Let ters Patent oiithe United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of trimming and randing the heels of shoes which consists in initially trimming the entire ripheral surface of the back and sides of a heel approximately to final shape without randing the heel, using the rand-crease to.

guide such trimming, and thereafter simultaneously randing the heel and trimming the entire initially trimmed peripheral surface to final shape and'using the rand-crease to guide such simultaneous randing and trimming. I

2. That improvement in methods of trimming and randing the heels of shoes which consists in initially trimming, with a relatively coarse cut, the entire peripheral surfaceoi the back and sides of a heel approximately to final shape without randing the heel, using the rand-crease to guide such trimming, and thereafter simultaneously randing the heel and trimming the entire initially trimmed peripheral surface to final shape with a relatively fine out and using the rand-crease to guide such simultaneous randing and trimming.

posed wedge element in one operation approximately to final shape without randing said wedge element, using the rand-crease to guide such trimming, and V thereafter simultaneously randing said wedge element and trimming the periphery thereof and that of the sole to final shape and using said rand-crease to guide such simultaneous randingiand trimming.

4:. That improvement in methods of trimming and randing the heels of spring-heeled shoes which consists in initially trimming, with a relatively coarse cut, the periphery of the sole and of the interposed wedge element in one operation approximately to final shape without r'anding said wedge element, using the rand crease to guide such trimming, and thereafter, with a relatively fine cut, simultaneously randing said Wedge element and trimming: thepenphery thereof and that of the sole to final shape and usin said randcrease to' guide'su ch simultaneous randing and trimming.

v5 That improvement in methods oftrimming and randing the heels of shoes which consists in initially trimming the entire peripheral surface of the back and sides of a heel parallel to the rand-crease without beveling' therand, simultaneously using the rand crease to control the course of such trimming, and thereafter simultaneously beveling the rand and trimming the entire peripheral surface of the heel to final shape.

(5. That improvement in methods of trimming randing the heels. of shoes which consists in initially trimming the entire peripheral surface of the back and sides of a heel, parallel to the rand-crease without beveling the rand, using the rand-crease to control the course of such trimming, and

thereafter simultaneously beveling therand 7 and trimmin the entire peripheral surface parallel to t e rand-crease and using the rand-crease togcontrol the beveling and the 'conslsts in initial 7. Tha J improvement in methods of trim- 'cut'the entire, peripheral surface of the back and sidesof a heel parallel tothe rand-crease without beveling the rand, using. the randcrease to control the course of such trimtrimmed periphery of said wedge ume e'zs ming, and thereafter simultaneously bevelin the rand and trimming the entire periphera surface with a fine cut and using the randcrease to guide the bevcling and final trimming.

9. That improvement in methods of shaping and randing a spring heel which consists in trimming the periphery of such a heel on the shoe progressively to a uniform distance from the rand-crease while maintaining the tread surface in one plane, and thereafter trimming the rand and said periphery while maintaining the rand-crease in one plane.

10. That improvement in methods of making spring-heeled shoes which consists in preliminarily attaching a Wedge element and the heel portion of a sole to the Laval-scat of a shoeto provide a spring heel, trimming the periphery of said wedge element substantially parallel to the rand-crease, and thereafter inserting a series of fasteners into the heel and locating them by using the element as a gag ng surface.

11. That improvement in methods of making spring-heeled shoes which consists in preliminarily attaching a wedge element and the heel portion of a sole to the heel-seat of a shoe to provide a spring heel, trimm' the periphery of the heel parallel to the randcrease, and thereafter inserti a series of fasteners through the heel and into the heelseat of the shoe and locating said fasteners at a uniform distance from the random by using the trimmed periphery of said wedge element as a gaging surface.

12. That improvement in methods of making spring-heeled shoes, which consists in trimming the periphery of the heel of such 106 a shoe to produce a uniform width of extension from the rand-crease by using the latter to control the course of trimmin imserting a series of fasteners in the hee at a uniform distance from the trimmed pe- 1m riphery by using the latter to, control the locating of the fasteners, and thereafter trimming the rand and the periphery to final shape at the same time.

13. That improvement in methods 0t 11 making shoes, which consists in trimming the periphery of the heel of a. shoe and con,- trolling the course thereof b, the randcrease to insure a uniform wi th of extension from the rand-crease, and thereafter in.- serting a series of fasteners into the heel and heel-seat in uniform relation to the randcrease by using the trimmed periphery of the rand-crease extension to locate t 14. That improvement in methods of mek- 1% ing spring-heeled shoes, which consists in trimming the periphery of the heel of such a shoe and controlling the course thereof b the rand-crease to insure a uniform width of extension from the rand-crease, inserting I a series of fasteners into the heel at a uniform distance from the trimmed periphery, and thereafter simultaneously randing the heel and smoothing the previously trimmed periphery.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes, Which consists in attaching a heel to the heel-seat of a shoe, trimming the periphery of the heel While controlling the course of trimming by the randcrease, inserting a series of fasteners to fasten the heel more securely to the heel-seat and loeating such fasteners by the previously trimmed periphery, and thereafter randing the heel and smoothing the previously trimmed periphery.

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes, Which consists in securing a heel to the heel-seat of a shoe, trimming the periphery of the heel to a uniform distance from the rand-crease by using the latter to guide the trimming, and thereafter inserting a series of fasteners into the heel at a uniform distance from the rand-crease by using the trimmed periphery of the randcrease extension to locate such fasteners.

17. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in trimming the periphery of the heel of a shoe parallel to the rand'crease and using the latter to guide such trimming, and thereafter inserting a series of fasteners into the heel in a line parallel to the rand-crease by using the trimmed periphery to locate such fasteners.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

THOMAS LUND. 

